| Business
travellers arguably have better opportunities to enjoy
high-quality wine tastings during a brief trip to Auckland
than when visiting almost any other major city, says Robert
Joseph in the Footprint Wine Travel Guide to the World.
The city of Auckland is where the modern New Zealand wine
industry was born.
The names associated
with the birth of many of today’s companies –
Babich, Brajkovich, Corban, Nobilo, Yukich among others
– came from around this region. The companies they
built up have since become part of an industry that is
flourishing over most of the length of the country.
The European origins
of many of the pioneers shaped the early development of
the industry.
Then in later years
the New Zealand wine industry has been influenced by the
experience of travellers who wanted to emulate the lifestyles
and tastes they had seen overseas, such as Goldwaters
did on Waiheke.
It is the sort of
industry that attracts people – farmers, scientists,
accountants – who have a dream making liquid poetry.
These people have
turned wine into a major success story in a very short
time.
New Zealand has seen
spectacular growth in wine production over the last 10
years. Exports by value and volume have increased approximately
6-fold since 1994. They continue to break records each
year.
Export sales are
about to overtake sales in the domestic market.
The key to this has
been quality and finding a niche. New Zealand companies
have concentrated on varieties and styles that consumers
want. And they have worked hard on keeping up quality.
This has paid off
in terms of value. I believe New Zealand’s wine
exports currently command the highest average value per
litre, though I am sure some of our New World friends
would like to steal that position from us.
New Zealand has not
been the only place to enjoy success.
New world producers
have shaken up the wine world since the 1970s.
That is not an accident.
There is tremendous diversity among the new world wine
regions. But you hear some common themes.
New world producers
have been successful in crafting wines that appeal to
the palate of a new consumer.
The labels –
a subject close to the hearts of this group – typically
give the consumer more useful information. Varietal labelling
has been a big factor in this.
These features, along
with value and consistent quality, have made new world
wines very popular in places where wine was not a longstanding
part of the culture.
What is more telling
is that new world wines have also developed their position
in established markets of the “old world”.
The picture is not
completely rosy.
Globally wine production
continues to outpace consumption. That is making life
tough for producers in some parts of the world.
Finding new markets
and preserving access to our current markets is a challenge
for all members of this group.
Certainly the future
growth and prosperity of the New Zealand wine industry
depends on export markets.
The flow is by no
means one way: we import a lot of wine, three quarters
of it from other World Wine Trade Group countries represented
at this meeting (US, Canada, Chile, Argentina, and Australia).
Others in this group
are major importers as well as exporters.
The United States
now imports around 40% of its wine from new world countries,
mainly Chile and Australia. Canada is the largest purchaser
and retailer of wine and spirits in the world.
Consumers in our
markets and other markets want to see good foreign wines
on the shelf. They want to be able to buy a Californian
zinfandel or a Chilean carmenere or a Marlborough sauvignon
blanc.
Winemakers here are
keen to give them what they want.
We can’t take
it for granted that those consumers will be given the
choice. We face barriers to trade.
We have already seen
wine labelling being used as a barrier in the form of
the European Union regulation 753.
We have a collective
interest in preserving market access and preventing technical
regulations from being used to restrict trade. That is
why agreements such as the Mutual Acceptance Agreement
of Oenological Practices and the current negotiations
on the wine labelling agreement are so important.
We had some limited
success in winding back regulation 753. But there will
be further challenges in Europe and in other markets.
This group will need
to keep caucusing on ways of resisting impediments to
wine trade.
Over time, industries
will only survive if they evolve. Wine is no exception.
One of the strengths of this group is that we are open
to innovation.
That has certainly
been the spirit of the New Zealand Industry. Winemakers
here were quick to adapt stainless steel technology from
our dairy industry. They also embraced the stelven or
screwcap ahead of many others very early. Kumeu River,
who I mentioned earlier, was one of the first to use this
form of closure on their wines. They managed the transition
without any effect on their sales.
We would not want
to see this type of innovation stifled by prescriptive
rules such as those we have seen coming out of Europe.
New Zealand’s
wine companies are privately owned and funded and must
be able to respond to market signals.
We need to keep thinking
ahead. We should be asking ourselves, for example, what
the World Wine Trade Group needs to do in Asia.
Japan, China, Hong
Kong, Singapore, Thailand are all going to be important
markets in the future. They have consumer societies with
growing appreciation for the quality that new world wines
can offer. We need to capitalise on these market opportunities.
So let’s think
about what we can do to encourage these markets to follow
a liberal and less prescriptive model for wine access
and regulation.
The adage goes that
winemaking is easy – it is just the first 200 years
that are difficult. |